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Silk, often hailed as the "Queen of Textiles," has woven into India's rich cultural heritage. Revered for its elegance, lustre, and intricate artistry, silk has been an integral part of Indian society for thousands of years. This blog delves into the fascinating history of silk in India, exploring its journey from ancient times to its modern-day significance.
I. The Origins of Silk in India
Reference in Mythology
Silk's introduction to India is steeped in historical evidence and mythological lore. According to Western historians, mulberry culture* spread to India around 140 B.C. from China via Khotan, with silk cultivation beginning in the regions around the Brahmaputra and Ganga rivers. However, several Indian scholars argue that the domestication of the silkworm Bombyx mori originated at the foot of the Himalayas, where the Aryans first discovered the silkworm in the Sub-Himalayan region (Mukherjee, 1919).
*Mulberry is a type of tree. In Sericulture, which is nothing but a silk production process, Mulberry trees are grown to produce leaves for the silkworm to eat.
Mythological stories and ancient scriptures mention various terms associated with silk, such as Kauseya, Pattabastra, and Chinangshuka. The Rig Veda refers to Urna, a type of silken cloth, while the Manusmriti contains specific references to silk garments. The epic tales of the Ramayana and Mahabharata mention silk in the context of nuptial presents and clothing spun from silken threads. The Kalika Purana indicates that the silk industry was well-established, particularly during the reign of King Narakasura.
Ancient Historical References
Archaeological evidence suggests that silk cultivation was practiced during the Indus Valley Civilization. However, with the decline of this ancient civilization, the knowledge and techniques of silk production were lost. This led to nearly 2,000 years of Chinese dominance in silk production until the art of sericulture was rediscovered and revived in India.
India's silk trade can be traced back to ancient times, with a well-organized export trade of silk to Rome during the reign of Kanishka (58 B.C.). By 200 A.D., India had established a profitable trade of raw silk and silk fabrics with the Middle East and South Europe, competing directly with China. Fragments of Indian silk garments unearthed from ancient graves in Syria attest to the antiquity of India's silk trade with the region.
II. The Growth of Silk Production in India
Medieval Period
The medieval period saw the silk industry receive tremendous impetus from the Mughal rulers, particularly during the 16th and 17th centuries. Akbar is the most prominent name in the history of silk in India, known for elevating the Indian silk industry to new heights.
Abul Fazl's Ain-i-Akbari (A.D. 1590) provides detailed accounts of the abundance of mulberry trees in Kashmir and the thriving sericulture industry. Emperor Akbar's special interest in silk production led to the successful encouragement of foreign artisans to improve silk-weaving techniques. By the 17th century, Bengal had become a major hub for silk production, ousting China as a key supplier of raw silk. The Dutch and the English capitalized on this by exporting Bengal raw silk to Europe and Japan. The period also saw the creation of exquisite silk products like Patola sarees, velvet pavilions, and carpets, many of which incorporated gold and silver threads.
The British Period marked both the growth and challenges for the Indian silk industry. During the 17th and 18th centuries, silk production flourished in Bengal, Mysore, and Kashmir regions. However, the sector faced setbacks in the 19th century due to inadequate organization to combat the pebrine disease of silkworms in 1875 and competition from countries like Japan, China, Italy, and France.
Silk Industry in Eastern India During Colonial Period
The silk industry in Eastern India, particularly in Bengal, experienced significant transformations during the British period. Until the 1770s, silk reeling in Bengal was carried out using simple indigenous techniques. However, the silk produced through these traditional methods faced a disadvantage in the European market, where silk reeled using the Italian filature method was preferred. To address this, the East India Company introduced filature machines in 1769 and employed Italian artisans to train Bengal's reelers.
By 1823, filature-wound silk had largely supplanted non-filature silk in exports, as the Company and private capitalists (European and Indian) owned filatures. These developments reduced independent artisans' wage labourers as the new technology demanded investments beyond their means. European observers like Hunter and Buchanon-Hamilton noted that the slow adoption of filature techniques was partly due to artisans' reluctance to separate from their means of production and submit to the control of 'Paikars' (wholesalers) and filature owners.
Merchant capital penetrated the silk industry through cash advances (dadan) provided to artisans by Mahajan (wholesalers) through petty traders. This system allowed merchants to exert significant control over artisans, often leading to the exploitation of underemployed family labour. These challenges, which began during the British period, continue to hinder progress in Bengal's silk industry today.
Before the Battle of Plassey, Bengal silk had an established international market. However, post-Plassey, there was a marked shift toward the export of raw silk rather than finished silk products. This shift was driven by the British textile industry's growing demand for raw silk and the increasing opposition within Britain to the import of finished textile goods. To meet the rising demand for raw silk, the Bengal government implemented measures to expand mulberry cultivation, often at the expense of food crops like rice.
The decline of the Bengal silk industry was further exacerbated by financial constraints faced by the East India Company during the American War of Independence. This led to a sharp reduction in silk purchases and a subsequent decline in mulberry cultivation. The situation worsened during the depression in the European silk market in 1781-1782 and the food scarcity in Bengal from 1783-1785. Although there was a revival in the silk trade after 1786, the French Revolutionary Wars caused another setback, leading to a prolonged period of stagnation in the Bengal silk trade between 1792 and 1811. Despite these challenges, Bengal's silk exports remained significant until the depression years of 1831-1835, after which the trade experienced a steep decline.
III. Regional Varieties of Indian Silk
From the ancient ages to today, India's diverse geography and culture have created various types of silk, each with unique characteristics.
1. Tanchoi Silk
Tanchoi Silk is a unique weaving technique that blends the silk traditions of India and China. It is characterized by its intricate designs, often featuring floral motifs and fine patterns, typically woven in a single or double warp on the loom. This type of silk is highly regarded for its luxurious texture and is commonly used in creating elegant sarees and garments.
2. Garad Silk
Garad Silk originates from West Bengal and is easily recognized by its distinctive red border and small paisley motifs. The silk fabric used for Garad sarees is woven from silk yarns that are tightly packed together, resulting in a fine, smooth texture. Garad sarees are traditionally worn during religious ceremonies and auspicious occasions.
3. Jamawar Silk
Jamawar Silk is a blend of silk with cotton and wool, creating a rich and warm fabric. This type of silk is traditionally used for weaving luxurious shawls, especially popular in the winter months. Jamawar shawls are known for their intricate patterns and vibrant colours, making them prized in any wardrobe.
4. Matka Silk
Matka Silk is a rough handloom silk fabric made from waste Mulberry Silk without removing its sericin (gum) content. Predominantly produced in Karnataka and Kashmir, Matka Silk has a slightly coarse texture, giving it a unique, rustic appeal. It is commonly used for making sarees, suits, and home furnishings.
5. Banarasi/Benarasi Silk
Banarasi Silk, hailing from Varanasi (Benaras), is one of India’s most famous silk varieties. Known for its gold and silver brocade (zari) work, Banarasi silk sarees are luxurious and opulent, often featuring intricate floral and foliate designs. These sarees are a staple in Indian weddings and are passed down through generations as heirlooms.
6. Mulberry Silk
Mulberry Silk is the purest form of silk, produced from the cocoons of the Silkworm (Bombyx mori) fed on mulberry leaves. This silk is usually found in yellow, white, or greenish-yellow colours. Mulberry Silk is known for its smooth texture and natural sheen, making it the most sought-after type of silk globally.
7. Murshidabad Silk
Murshidabad Silk is produced in the silk hub of Eastern India, Murshidabad, West Bengal. Known for its fine quality and smooth texture, Murshidabad Silk is often used to make sarees and scarves that are lightweight and comfortable to wear.
8. Bangalore Silk
Bangalore Silk, produced in the silk farms of Bangalore, is known for its simplicity and purity. The silk fabric from this region is of high quality and is often used to make elegant and durable sarees.
9. Angora Silk
Angora Silk is made from the fur of the Angora rabbit, known for its tender and soft texture. This type of silk is rare and luxurious, often used in creating high-end garments and accessories.
10. Silk Embroidery
Silk Embroidery involves intricate patterns embroidered onto various fabrics using silk threads. This technique enhances the beauty of silk garments, adding a touch of elegance and sophistication.
11. Pochampally/Pochampalli Silk
Pochampally Silk originates from Boodhan Pochampally in Andhra Pradesh, famously known as the Silk City of India. This type of silk is known for its unique Ikat patterns, where the threads are dyed before weaving to create distinct geometric designs.
12. Mysore Silk Crepe
Mysore Silk Crepe is a type of silk woven from hard-spun silk yarn in the silk city of Mysore, Karnataka. This silk is known for its fine texture and natural sheen, making it ideal for creating luxurious sarees.
13. Sournachuri Silk
Sournachuri Silk, originating from West Bengal, is woven with gold threads incorporated into the fabric, giving it a rich, shiny appearance. Often referred to as the illustrious sister of the Baluchari Silk saree, Sournachuri Silk is known for its elaborate designs and regal look.
14. Raw Silk
Raw Silk is the most natural form of silk, with no twist and minimal processing. It is a delicate fibre easily woven into various fabrics, giving it a slightly rough texture. Raw silk is often used to make sarees and home textiles.
15. Kosa Silk
Kosa Silk comes from Chhattisgarh and is known for its soft texture and natural dull-brownish colour. Kosa is a type of Tussar Silk prized for its durability and elegance, available in shades of gold, dark honey, and cream.
16. Tussar Silk
Tussar Silk, also known as Wild Silk, is exclusively produced in India and is known for its natural gold sheen. The fabric is lightweight and has a slightly coarse texture, making it ideal for creating sarees and scarves that are both elegant and comfortable.
17. Muga Silk
Muga Silk is produced only in Assam and is characterized by its golden-yellow colour. Known for its durability and natural lustre, Muga Silk is one of the strongest natural fibres often used in traditional Assamese garments.
18. Eri Silk
Eri Silk, also known as Errandi or Endi in many parts of India, is a form of silk from the east with a dull yellow, gold-like sheen. This silk is known for its warmth and comfort, making it ideal for shawls and blankets.
19. Dharamavaram Silk
Dharamavaram Silk originates from Andhra Pradesh and is famous for its gold-plated borders. Known as the "Silk for the Bride," Dharamavaram sarees are luxurious and often worn during weddings and special occasions.
20. Narayanpet Silk
Narayanpet Silk comes from Andhra Pradesh and is known for its checked surface design with intricate ethnic patterns on the border or pallu, such as temple designs. These sarees are lightweight and comfortable, making them suitable for everyday wear.
21. Pat/Paat Silk
Pat Silk, produced in Eastern India, is renowned for its distinctive brightness, high quality, and durable nature. This silk is usually available in brilliant white or off-white shades and is often used in making sarees and other garments.
22. Cot Silk
Cot Silk is a blend of cotton and silk, offering a more affordable option while retaining the sheen and softness of silk. This type of silk is commonly used for making sarees and suits that are both stylish and economical.
23. Kanchipuram Silk
Kanchipuram Silk comes from the village of Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu and is celebrated for its durability and shine. These sarees are known for their rich quality and impeccable finish, making them popular for weddings and special occasions.
24. Bhagalpuri Silk
Bhagalpuri Silk, known as the "Queen of all fabrics," originates from West Bengal and is famous for its resilience and superior quality. This silk is often used to make elegant and comfortable sarees.
25. Uppada Silk
Uppada Silk, also known as Uppada Pattu (Silk in Telugu), comes from Andhra Pradesh. This silk is woven in cotton warp and is distinguished by the length and breadth count of threads, creating a lightweight and luxurious fabric.
26. Art Silk
Art Silk, short for artificial silk, is made from synthetic fibres like Rayon that closely resemble natural silk. This type of silk is more affordable and is commonly used to create sarees and garments that offer the look of silk without the high cost.
IV. The Role of Silk in Indian Culture and Economy
Silk has always been an integral part of traditional Indian attire. From the opulent Banarasi sarees of Varanasi to the rich Kanjeevaram sarees of Tamil Nadu, silk is synonymous with grace and elegance. These sarees are often heirlooms passed down through generations.
In religious ceremonies, silk is considered auspicious and is used to adorn deities, priests, and brides. The fabric's association with purity and luxury makes it a preferred choice for weddings, festivals, and other important occasions.
Economically, silk production has been a significant contributor to India's GDP. The industry employs millions, from silk farmers to weavers and artisans. Indian silk is also a major export commodity, with markets in Europe, the United States, and Southeast Asia.
V. Modern Developments in the Indian Silk Industry
The Indian silk industry has seen significant technological advancements in recent years. Modern sericulture techniques, improved looms, and government initiatives have enhanced production efficiency and quality. These developments have helped the industry adapt to changing market demands and compete with synthetic fabrics.
However, the industry faces competition from cheaper synthetic alternatives, environmental concerns, and labour issues. Despite these challenges, a growing demand for sustainable and eco-friendly silk has led to a resurgence in traditional silk-weaving practices.
VI. Conclusion
The history of silk in India is a testament to the country's rich cultural heritage and artistic prowess. From its mythological roots and ancient trade networks to its flourishing under the Mughals and resilience during the British period, Indian silk has endured the test of time. The transformation of the silk industry in Bengal, particularly during the British period, highlights the complex interplay between tradition and modernization. As the industry continues to evolve, the legacy of Indian silk remains strong, with its timeless appeal capturing people's hearts worldwide.
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